The quick answer is to send me your photo in the highest resolution you have and I will take a look at it for you and let you know how big it can go on different media.
Factors such as file format, exposure, colour space, noise can all affect how well the image will print and what size it can go to. If you're shooting on a modern DSLR or mirrorless system, you can expect your images to print to around 150cm on the longest edge, potentially bigger with a little tweaking. If you're shooting with drones, check out the answer further down.
Please upload your files to the following specification. If you are unsure how best to resize your files, send the highest resolution you have and we will do the rest. We automatically add gallery wraps to canvas prints so you don't need to worry about them.
8 Bit (not 16 Bit)
RGB (not CMYK).
TIF (or JPG at maximum quality)
Flattened images (no layers).
Sized at the correct dimensions.
No additional channels.
Embedded working colour space (e.g. Adobe RGB or sRGB).
Compress your files into a ZIP folder before sending
To help you get started with me, I am more than happy to provide you with some test prints to make initial adjustments to your workflow to ensure future work is printed as expected.
It really depends on many factors, mostly how correct the exposure is and what the noise levels are like. Many earlier drones will struggle to print big (over 100cm on the longest edge). Certainly DJI Phantom 2 & 3's can be somewhat limiting in what can be printed. Although, rather than pixelate the image tends to go much softer and a few artefacts may be more visible. Various sharpening techniques can help on larger images. Saying that, I have successfully taken images from the these drones to 180cm on the longest edge.
Newer drones, particularly the DJI Phantom 4 Series, Inspire 2 and Mavic 2 will print beautifully if you've got a good exposure to start. Try not to over process your image during post-production and make sure you're shooting in RAW and AdobeRGB or ProPhoto Colorspace.
If you're unsure, just send me the file and I'll take a look for you.
For prints onto photographic papers I usually print at 240dpi. You can print at 300dpi, but it normally is overkill for a print that is viewed from a distance. It's best to drop the dpi and push a the pixels a bit more for a bigger default print size without having to "create" extra pixels.
Canvas prints I will print at 180dpi. This works well with the texture of the canvas and again gives an extra gain in the size the file can go without resampling and creating extra pixels.
If you send your files at 240dpi I can do the rest when I print and adjust according to the media they will be printed on.
If you're comfortable resizing your image and sharpening it for print then please do, and just let me know that you have sized and sharpened how you want it to print.
Ideally, sharpening is done once the size and media has been decided. So, you wold work on your image in post production and apply minimal or localised sharpening where needed. But don't over do it at this stage. Create a master TIF file that you can then use to create versions for printing at different sizes and media.
However, part of the service I offer is to resize and sharpen your files correctly for the size and media I will be printing. Using various tools and photoshop techniques I can get the file looking the best it can without over sharpening and introducing unwanted noise and artefacts. Send through your master file and I'll do the rest.
I've seen them too! It's a case of you get what you pay for. The majority of high production canvas houses are fully automated meaning that it's rare if a "human" actually looks at your file to make sure it will print ok, let alone check it at the end of production to make sure it's come out great. Some claim to be Australian, but the work is shipped out overseas to be printed,
I have had many customers tell me about the problems they've had with online printing houses, some even bringing them in to have them restretched or fixed up.
I keep my prices very competitive, I can't compete with some of the sales that online places do. The difference in the finished product is very apparent though. I use a premium quality canvas (381gsm), 30mm x 30mm kiln dried stretchers, fully taped back, felt bumpers and wire hanging system.I look at every file before printing, make adjustments to ensure the best print is possible, such as bringing up shadows, fixing blown out highlights and of course resizing and sharpening, There's no additional cost for this, it's all part of the personal service.
It will eventually, but not in your lifetime! The archival life of inks and canvases is around 150 years for indoor use. Outdoors in sunlight they should go to around 5 years. Most people have their canvases indoors, there are better products for outdoor.
Profile frames are becoming more popular for canvases. Although canvas prints can look great without any framing and it's pretty much how the majority of people will hang them, a profile frame can add a little more "wow" to it.
It's an "L" shaped moulding that is about 10mm wide on the ends. The canvas sits inside the frame with a 5mm gap between the canvas and the frame, creating a shadow effect around the the canvas. The sides of the canvas are no longer visible, just the side of the moulding. Have a look at some of the finished products I have done with these style frames.
IKEA do a great selection of frames and I started off using them for my own work. They are a great way to start getting something out there for an affordable price.
However, I would buy 10 frames and have to take 8 back to swap them for new ones because they were badly fitted, the glass/acrylic was damaged or they just fell apart when I put my print in them!
The price difference between an IKEA frame and one of mine is not too significant when you consider what you are getting. The mouldings I use are made of wood, not a soft compressed pulp. They are glued and v-nailed together for extra strength. The print is stuck down flat onto a 5mm foamcore backing with an acid free ph neutral matboard, for a solid finish. Finally, it's all put together with framing pins, fully taped back, felt bumpers and a wire hanging system.
By all means give the IKEA frames a go and see if they work for you, I used them for about a year before I started making my own. Although I can make prints to fit IKEA frames I don't offer the service of putting the prints into the IKEA frame.
If you need custom sized frames then definitely get a quote from me.
Absolutely! There are a couple of variations to choose from. A less expensive version that diffuses the light and cuts down the reflections. It has a slight mat effect to it and can dull the image a fraction. Overall it's a very cost effective way of reducing reflections.
The expensive version is truly unbelievable and is well worth taking a look at, if you can see it that is. It is so clear that it's as though there isn't any glass in the frame. The clarity is amazing and the reflections are pretty much completely gone. It's not cheap, but if your customers want something special then this is the one.
I can certainly ship your prints, canvases and frames to you or directly to your customer. The majority of photographers choose to come and collect the prints themselves or arrange for their customers to collect. Shipping costs vary and I can provide a quote for you. I don't charge a handling fee for shipping, simply pass on the courier costs to you.
Shipping glass is pretty much a no-no. I would not recommend it. I can replace the glass with acrylic if you need to ship an item, it's lighter, stronger and pretty much guarantees your print will arrive safely.